Recipes By Kevin Mckenna, Alexa Weibel
3 recipes found
Green Enchilada Sauce
Chile sauces at El Cholo in Los Angeles have changed over its century of operation, as American palates have become more used to “spicier, more flavorful” foods, said Ron Salisbury, the owner, whose grandparents started the restaurant. “So without endangering too much, we added a little more chile." He added, “I felt I was tampering with something sacred.” One of his kitchen jobs as a teenager included seeding chiles, a step that keeps the sauce from becoming too hot and bitter. This sauce, adapted from “A Taste of History: With Authentic El Cholo Recipes” by Ron Salisbury (2020), was created for El Cholo’s Sonora-Style Enchiladas, but can be used for any enchilada recipe.
Red Enchilada Sauce
Cooks at El Cholo in Los Angeles spend four hours, three times a week, to make each 35-gallon batch of sauce for their enchiladas. “Without the enchilada, we wouldn’t have survived,” said Ron Salisbury, the third-generation owner. Adapted from “A Taste of History: With Authentic El Cholo Recipes” by Ron Salisbury (2020), this sauce was created for El Cholo’s Sonora-Style Enchiladas but can be used for any enchilada recipe. The mild California chiles, despite their name, come from Mexico, where they are dried in kilns. (Years ago they were sun-dried in fields, giving them a richer flavor, but exposure to birds ended that practice.)
El Cholo’s Sonora-Style Enchiladas
These chicken-filled, Sonora-style enchiladas have been offered at El Cholo in Los Angeles since it began as the Sonora Café in 1923. They are based on the recipe of Rosa Borquez, who started the restaurant with her husband, Alejandro. Both were born in the Mexican state of Sonora. This dish, with stacked tortillas rather than rolled, is known in Sonora as “enchiladas chatas,” flat enchiladas. Adapted from “A Taste of History: With Authentic El Cholo Recipes” by Ron Salisbury (2020), this recipe includes a chicken stew base with tomatoes, poblano and white pepper, plus a classic red enchilada sauce with smoky dried chiles and a green enchilada sauce with verdant notes from tomatillos, fresh chiles and spinach. A fried egg crowns the top.