Recipes By Sara Bonisteel
35 recipes found
Scuttlebutt
Tangy and salty and colorful, the scuttlebutt sandwich vibrates with flavor: hard-boiled egg, pickled beets and carrots, olives, capers, herbs and feta mingle on pillowy focaccia. “The word ‘scuttlebutt’ is sort of like what’s the gossip, what’s the story, what’s the deal or the chitchat, you know, the chatter,” said its co-creator Caroline Fidanza, who devised the sandwich at her Brooklyn restaurant Saltie in 2009 with the chef Rebecca Collerton. Inspired by Ms. Collerton’s practice of cobbling together sandwiches with whatever was in the fridge, they intended the sandwich to change with the seasons, but once patrons got a taste of the pickled beets, the lineup was set in stone. Saltie closed in 2017, but Ms. Fidanza brought the sandwich back at Marlow & Sons in 2020, when it became a best-seller once again. Ms. Collerton, who died of cancer in 2018, was not able to see its comeback. There are many components, and many shortcuts: Use store-bought pickled vegetables and focaccia; doctor up mayonnaise rather than making aioli. But the details make a difference: Ms. Fidanza says that “picking the herbs is a pain, but that’s just what you have to do.”
French Onion Soup
In 1954, what was then called the Food News Department of The New York Times released a pamphlet simply called “Soups,” which had 20 recipes for soups “thick and thin, hot and cold,” including those for minestrone, shrimp bisque and this French onion soup. We’ve updated the recipe adding sherry and wine to layer in more flavors. The bulk of the time is spent on caramelizing the onions, a process that always takes longer than it seems it should. But it’s worth the wait. Why You Should Trust This Recipe Sara Bonisteel caramelized nearly 10 pounds of onions to achieve this, the ideal soup. Adapting this from a recipe first published in The Times in 1954, she added both wine and sherry for even more depth of flavor.
Salty Dog
The Salty Dog is a Greyhound cocktail with salt — hence the name. Craig Claiborne first brought the recipe to The Times in 1968 for a Fourth of July barbecue feature. While his version calls for adding salt to the drink, other recipes salt the rim of the glass instead; see the variation below.
Chocolate Birthday Cake Butter Mochi
Sprinkles always bring joy to a cake, but add Pop Rocks and you have a celebration, complete with a mini fireworks show. This recipe from the chef Sheldon Simeon and Garrett Snyder’s 2021 book, “Cook Real Hawai‘i,” takes chocolate butter mochi to the max with a creamy peanut butter topping and lots and lots of candy. Add the Pop Rocks just before serving; the candy has a tendency to ping off as it reacts with the moisture in the frosting. The butter mochi is best the day it is made, but will keep a couple of days covered in the refrigerator.
Weeknight Fancy Chicken and Rice
This is a truly glorious one-pot weeknight meal. Feel free to experiment with the garnish, adding dried cranberries, hazelnuts, pine nuts or your own favorites. Ghee adds a nuttiness to the dish, but if you cannot find it, you can make it with unsalted butter using the chef Asha Gomez's method. Simply melt the butter in a pot over low heat. Let it simmer until it foams and sputters. Once the sputtering stops and the milk solids in the pot turn a khaki color, remove it from the heat and skim off the foam with a spoon. Strain remaining butter into a container, leaving behind any solids in the pot. Ghee keeps for up to six months in the refrigerator.
Pistachio Green Mole (Mole Verde de Pistache)
Many Mexican moles require hours of cooking and a laundry list of ingredients, but this green mole does not. This vibrant vegan version is made with herbs, baby spinach and pistachios, and the sauce comes together in about 30 minutes. This recipe calls for zucchini or summer squash, but feel free to swap in another roasted vegetable, depending on the season. The chef Enrique Olvera included it in his “Tu Casa Mi Casa” cookbook to show how fresh and seasonal a mole can be.
Dirty Rice
Dirty rice gets its color from caramelized sirloin and the roux — flour browned (but not burned) in oil. The New Orleans-based chef Isaac Toups offers a 15-minute roux shortcut in his book “Chasing the Gator,” but you may find your roux browns more quickly in the smoking hot oil. Be sure to stir, stir, stir once you add the flour. You cannot walk away from the pot while making this roux. Prep the “trinity” — bell peppers, onion and celery — in advance as you won't have time to do it while the roux cooks. When the roux turns the color of milk chocolate, toss in the chopped vegetables to stop the roux from cooking any further. Instead of adding rice and the serving components, you could do as Mr. Toups suggests and use the meat gravy as a base for a lasagna ragu. Just throw in some fresh tomatoes and cook it down “until it’s nice and tight” and make it your lasagna filling.
Pepperoni Rolls
Found throughout West Virginia, the pepperoni roll was born in the early 20th century in the north-central part of the state as a convenient lunch for Italian coal miners. Giuseppe Argiro is credited with first selling the rolls commercially, sometime between 1927 and 1938, and his Country Club Bakery, in Fairmont, W.Va., still uses his recipe, the standard by which all other rolls in the state are judged. The recipe remains a secret, but this version — from the chef Travis Milton and featured in Ronni Lundy’s cookbook, “Victuals” (Clarkson Potter, 2016) — is a close approximation. Look for a hunk of pepperoni to slice into sticks, as it gives the roll more chew. Many West Virginians add cheese to their versions, so feel free to experiment once you’re comfortable with the recipe.
How to Make Baby Food
With so many firsts in a baby’s life, it’s easy to forget one of the most rewarding: baby’s first solid food. Let Sara Bonisteel guide you through making early foods.
Ham Buns
Jennifer Owens doesn’t know where her mother, Frances, first found the recipe for these ham buns, but they have been a part of her life since childhood in Easley, S.C. It may have come from relatives in Tennessee, as a similar recipe appears as “Hallelujah Ham Loaves” in “Dinner on the Diner,” a 1983 cookbook from the Junior League of Chattanooga. The warm appetizer has won fans wherever Ms. Owens goes. Her mother’s original formula called for raw onions, but Ms. Owens now sautés them. Use good smoked ham, either holiday leftovers or from the deli counter. As the buns bake, the butter pools at the bottom, toasting up the base of these irresistible bite-size sandwiches.
Shanghai Stir-Fried Chunky Noodles
This Shanghainese noodle recipe, from the British cook and food writer Fuchsia Dunlop, can be made vegetarian by omitting the pork. Do seek out light and dark soy sauces; light soy sauce adds salty-umami flavor and dark soy sauce adds color. Traditional woks are made from carbon steel, and must be routinely seasoned to keep from rusting. To season, heat the wok on high, turn off the flame and use a paper towel to wipe the interior with vegetable oil. Repeat if necessary. A deep frying pan with high sides will work for this recipe if you don't have a wok.
Butterhorns
Butterhorns fall into two camps: savory or sweet. These are the latter, filled with a tender mince of nuts and topped with an almond-flavored frosting. Sweet butterhorns are a favorite of the in-house bakeries at the Bavarian Inn and Zehnder’s of Frankenmuth, the two big all-you-can-eat chicken dinner restaurants in Frankenmuth, Mich. This recipe comes from Dorothy Zehnder, a founder of the Bavarian Inn. Tucking in the corners of each butterhorn before rolling helps contain the filling during baking.
Butter Tarts
There may be no more perfectly satisfying treat than a Canadian butter tart. It is small and sweet, bracingly so, with hints of butterscotch and caramel. And each bite delivers three textures: flaky crust, chewy top, gooey center. While its exact origins may never be found, the tart became popular in Ontario in the early 20th century and spread across Canada thanks to its inclusion in the 1913 “Five Roses Cook Book.” Today there are numerous variations. Runny or firm? Raisins or plain? This recipe can be adapted to please all partisans.
Fourth of July Shortcake
Strawberries and blueberries under a drizzle of cream has long been an Independence Day favorite, but when Jean Hewitt introduced this recipe in 1968, it was as an alternative to another Fourth of July favorite: “The first red, white and blue dessert that comes to mind is watermelon and blueberries with ice cream, but for those who prefer something a little different, there is a recipe for strawberry and blueberry shortcake with ricotta sauce. Pitchers of clear, cold iced tea are all that have to be added.” The original recipe called for bran breakfast cereal, but we’ve adapted it with wheat bran, found in the bulk section of the grocery store, which gives this shortcake its rustic, colonial feel.
Mocha Ice Cream
Think of this as a chocolate Vietnamese iced coffee in dessert form. The original recipe appeared in The New York Times in June 1944 — wartime, when cream was scarce and the paper’s home economists experimented with gelatin and rennet to give ice cream texture. After the war, the recipe reappeared (along with the cream) in the pamphlet “12 Frozen Desserts.” Undiluted cold-brewed coffee is substituted here for the strong black coffee in the original recipe to produce a much smoother taste.
Ham Broth
This is a good recipe for after the holidays, when a ham bone is on hand. Try it in place of stock for a risotto or soup.
Fruit Fluden
This dessert bar was first published by The New York Times in 1952 in a review of Passover dishes, and later it appeared in the pamphlet “Holiday Desserts: Cakes, Pies and Puddings for Special Occasions.” The traditional fluden is a leavened pastry, but this version is not. Whipped egg whites mixed with matzo meal, egg yolks, sugar and salt bind the layers together. To be certain that the dessert is kosher for Passover, all ingredients must be endorsed as such by “a recognized rabbinical authority,” as our editor June Owen wrote in 1952.
Hot Brown
The Hot Brown was invented in 1926 at the Brown Hotel in Louisville, Ky., by the chef Fred Schmidt. The open-faced turkey sandwich, smothered in Mornay sauce and topped with bacon, was served to customers at late-night dances, while the band was on its break. The dish has become a Louisville staple, one well suited for Derby Day or after Thanksgiving, when roast turkey is plentiful. Thick slices of bread, sold as Texas Toast in some parts of the United States, do not get lost under the meat and sauce. Hand-carved turkey is best for the dish; deli turkey slices do not deliver the same Hot Brown experience.
Chicken Congee
Congee is regarded as the ultimate Chinese comfort food, according to the author Fuchsia Dunlop. This recipe for ji zhou or chicken congee, from her book on Jiangnan regional cuisine, is dead simple and satisfying. Serve it with chicken and soy sauce for a late-night Shanghai-style snack.
Frozen Irish Coffee
This drink is inspired by the frozen Irish coffee served at Molly’s at the Market in the French Quarter of New Orleans, where it’s served from a frozen daiquiri machine. Freezing milk in an ice cube tray gives you a similar creamy consistency to the version at Molly’s, which contains no ice. Brandy provides a mellower flavor than Irish whiskey, but feel free to substitute whiskey for the brandy if you prefer.
Butter Tart Squares
The Junior League of Toronto called this recipe “a ‘no fuss’ treat for butter tart lovers.” Canadian butter tarts are gooey, sugary delights enjoyed year-round. For these squares, rather than make individual pastry shells, you simply pour the butter tart filling over a shortbread base. Once baked, it can be cut into squares like a bar cookie.
Nanaimo Bars
The Nanaimo bar is a tremendously sweet, no-bake layered bar cookie from Canada made almost exclusively of packaged ingredients. The buttercream layer gets its yellow hue from custard powder, a vital ingredient that makes this a true Nanaimo bar. Use an offset spatula to give the chocolate top a surface as smooth as freshly Zambonied ice. The novelist Margaret Atwood included this recipe, from the chef Susan Mendelson, in her “Canlit Foodbook,” a fund-raising book that featured food from literature, as well as author recipes. Ms. Atwood prefers walnuts in this recipe, but any combination of walnuts, almonds or pecans will do. We’ve added a smidge more cocoa and the optional addition of salt — but leave it out for the true Nanaimo bar experience.
Strawberry Chiffon Pie
This airy retro icebox dessert first appeared in “Fruit Pies: Delightful Confections Starring Fresh Fruit,” a booklet published by The New York Times Food News department in 1952, and it’s an excellent way to make use of summer’s strawberry bounty. Chiffons achieve their light consistency from meringue that is carefully folded into fruit custard.
Butterscotch Wheels
This recipe first appeared in “More Quick Breads,” a pamphlet from the Food News Department of The New York Times, published in 1954. The booklet was one of 15 produced by the section covering “easy-to-make” recipes on topics ranging from fish to party cakes. For this recipe, feel free to substitute the nuts, and be sure to eat these small cinnamon rolls right out of the oven.