Recipes By Steven Raichlen
70 recipes found
South Carolina Mustard BBQ Sauce
South Carolina’s contribution to regional American barbecue is mustard sauce. Barbecue buffs in these parts understand the wonders that mustard can work on pork, how the spice enhances the meat’s sweetness while the acidity cuts through the fat. A good mustard sauce is a study in balance, the bite of mustard and mouth-pucker of vinegar offset by the sweetness of honey or brown sugar. Tradition calls for using ballpark-style mustard, but this recipe instead opts for the finesse of Dijon-style mustard or a grainy mustard. Serve this sauce over smoked, pulled or grilled pork (it goes great with pork tenderloin), smoked or grilled chicken, grilled salmon and other seafood, and why not, whole roasted cauliflower.
North Carolina Vinegar Sauce
This mouth-puckering condiment was one of America’s original barbecue sauces, and while a watery mix of cider vinegar, hot red-pepper flakes, salt and pepper may not seem like barbecue sauce to most Americans, North Carolina-style pulled pork just wouldn’t taste right without it. The vinegar counterpoints the fatty pork, while the black and hot peppers crank up the heat. In the western part of the state, ketchup or tomato sauce is often added for sweetness, a practice made optional in this recipe. Some pit masters add liquid hot sauce in place of (or in addition to) red-pepper flakes, while others add water to diminish the vinegary bite.
Alabama White BBQ Sauce
Visit Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q in Decatur, Ala., and you’ll find a barbecue sauce unlike any on the planet. Created by a railroad worker-turned-pit master in the 1920s, this piquant mixture of mayonnaise, vinegar and black pepper has accompanied barbecued chicken for five generations of pit masters. If you’re not from Alabama, mayonnaise may sound like a strange ingredient for a barbecue sauce, but its creamy piquancy goes great with smoked chicken, pulled pork and roast beef. Some pit masters like to crank up the heat with some prepared horseradish.
Inside-Out Cheeseburgers
The perfect burger is every griller’s aspiration and challenge: luscious, smoky and charred on the outside, moist and tender on the inside. That ideal is a challenge, because cooking the burger to a safe internal temperature of 160 degrees, as recommended by the USDA, generally yields meat that many might consider overcooked. The solution involves turning a cheeseburger inside out: Instead of laying a slice of cheese on top, you fold grated cheese into the ground beef. The cheese melts, keeping the meat moist. The other secret is to choose a richly flavored ground beef (ideally from the chuck, or a mixture of chuck, short ribs and brisket) with a relatively high fat content (15 to 20 percent). For best results, don’t forget to grill the bun.
Grilled Pork Chops
Pulled pork is one of the glories of American barbecue. Unfortunately, smoking a pork shoulder requires a smoker — and a substantial part of the day to cook. What if you could capture some of that sweet, salty, spicy flavor in pork chops that grill in mere minutes? You can, and it comes down to the pit master’s secret weapon: a rub. Four seasonings are all it takes to make a classic barbecue rub, and you may have all of them at hand in your kitchen: salt, pepper, paprika and brown sugar. For extra smokiness, use pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika). As for the pork chops, aim for 3/4- to 1-inch thick pieces that are as generously marbled as you can find.
Grilled Salmon Steaks
Salmon is the perfect fish for grilling: It’s rich-flavored and intrinsically fatty, which keeps it from drying out when exposed to the high, dry heat of the fire. So why do so many cooks leave half the fish stuck to the grate when grilling it? Nerves are part of it: The moment you put the fish on the grill, you may feel compelled to move it, thereby proving to yourself it hasn’t stuck. When fish first hits the grill, it will stick — that’s the nature of piscine protein. The secret is to let it grill for a few minutes without touching it, after which the proteins will release from the hot metal. These two other techniques guarantee stick-free fish: First, select fish steaks, which are less prone to falling apart than fillets. Second, slather the fish with mayonnaise-mustard sauce before grilling. The mayonnaise acts as a lubricant to keep the fish from sticking.
Grilled Chicken Breasts
Depending on your perspective, a chicken breast can be a bland protein requiring bold external seasonings to make it palatable — but it’s also a blank canvas awaiting your culinary creativity. Either way, it has the advantage of cooking quickly and the disadvantage of potentially drying out on the grill. Enter a simple olive oil, lemon and herb marinade, which adds flavor, keeps the bird moist and doubles as the sauce.
Grilled Steak
Admit it: The one dish you really want to grill well is steak. The one steak you should know how to grill is skirt steak. Rich and beefy, it’s relatively affordable and quick to grill. When possible, buy the outside skirt (which comes from the diaphragm) as opposed to the tougher inside skirt (which comes from the transverse abdominal muscle). When in doubt, ask your butcher. Marinating the steak, even just briefly, allows it to soak up flavor while you light your grill.
Shrimp a la Plancha
This simple but intensely flavorful dish combines two classic Spanish tapas. The first is shrimp, head and shells intact, roasted on a bed of hot salt on a plancha. The second is camarones al ajillo, garlic shrimp sizzled in olive oil in a cazuela (shallow clay dish). While not strictly traditional, this dish combines the best of both recipes — and fairly bursts with Spanish flavors thanks to the flavor-boosting powers of searing hot metal.
Torrijas (Spanish-Style French Toast)
Though variations on French toast abound, this torrijas recipe hails primarily from Spain, where the bread slices are first soaked in wine or milk and beaten eggs, then pan-fried until golden and finally dusted with cinnamon sugar or drizzled with honey. You’ll find many approaches to pain perdu (French for “lost bread”), all of which speak to an ancestral desire to turn a stale staple into edible comfort food. The use of Malaga or cream sherry (sweet wines from southern Spain) plants this recipe firmly in the Spanish camp. With its large surface area, the hot griddle permits you to cook it off in just one batch.
Grilled Zucchini Ribbons
Zucchini is the summer vegetable grillers love to hate. We love it for its summery flavor and sheer abundance. We love it less for its unfortunate tendency to become soggy when grilled. Russ Faulk, chief designer at Kalamazoo Outdoor Gourmet and author of “Food + Fire,” has come up with an ingenious method of keeping zucchini crisp during grilling: He slices it thin on a mandolin, then accordions the strips on skewers to grill over a screaming hot fire. The edges char and crisp, giving you the vegetable equivalent of meaty ribs’ burnt ends. I’ve taken the burnt end idea one step further by seasoning the zucchini with a classic barbecue rub — use your favorite — and basting it with spiced butter.
Grilled Corn With Sesame-Soy Butter
Mark Twain advocated for boiling corn — preferably right in the corn field. But there’s no better way to cook corn than by grilling. The high dry heat of the fire caramelizes the natural plant sugars, intensifying the corn’s natural sweetness while adding a beguiling smoky flavor. The key is to brown the kernels on all sides. To form a convenient handle for eating the corn, fold the husk back below the stem end. In this version, the corn is seasoned with sesame, soy, mirin and butter.
Easy Horseradish Sauce
Smoked Turkey Indoors
Grilled Walnut Olive-Bread With Exotic Mushrooms
Walnut-Olive Bread
Grilled Pizza With Italian Cheeses and Bitter Greens
Grilled Herb Focaccia
Pizza Dough for the Grill
Smoked Cabbage Slaw With Creamy Horseradish
This slaw acquires its smoke flavor not through grilling the greens, but by cold smoking. The advantage is that you flavor the leaves with smoke without cooking them, so the cabbage remains audibly crisp. Cold smoking can be done on a grill or in a smoker, or even in your kitchen using a stove-top smoker or hand-held smoker. The secret is to smoke the shredded cabbage over a pan of ice to keep it from cooking. Horseradish and mustard fire up the traditional creamy mayonnaise dressing.
Madeira Gravy
Maderia, a fortified wine, brings wonderful flavor to this Thanksgiving pan gravy, quickly whisked together after the bird emerges from the oven. As with any gravy, the flavor of the stock is essential here, so it's absolutely worth the time to make your own.
Honey-Cured, Hickory-Smoked Shoulder Ham
A true ham, weighing 15 to 20 pounds, comes from a hog’s hindquarters. It’s a formidable piece of meat, requiring several weeks of curing and 24 hours or more of smoking. A shoulder ham (sometimes called picnic ham) has a similarly magisterial appearance and profound umami flavors, but in a size that will fit in your refrigerator and can be cured and smoked inside a week. When possible, buy a heritage pork breed, like Berkshire or Duroc, preferably from a local farmer or butcher.
Will Horowitz’s Watermelon Ham
When Will Horowitz, a chef and an owner of Ducks Eatery in Manhattan, unveiled his watermelon ham in 2018, he sparked an Instagram revolution, inspiring foodies from as far away as Germany and Japan to try incarnadine slabs of his brined, smoked watermelon. It sure looked like ham, right down to the crosshatch scoring on the surface. It sure smelled like ham, fragrant with the smoky scent of hickory. It even had some of the briny umami tang you associate with ham. Though it didn’t really taste like ham, it did firmly establish plant-based charcuterie as a big thing. This watermelon “ham” starts with a tamari-herb brine, is smoked low and slow for the first four hours, then seared. This recipe is adapted from “Salt Smoke Time” by Will Horowitz, Julie Horowitz and with Marisa Dobson (William Morrow, 2018).
Texas Hill Country-Style Smoked Brisket
The packer brisket, so called because that’s how it’s labeled by the packing house, is the Mount Everest of barbecue: magnificent, imposing and intimidating. It’s challenging on account of its size (12 to 14 pounds) and its anatomy: two distinct muscles (one lean, one fat), both loaded with collagen, a tough connective tissue. To do it justice, season the meat assertively. You’ll smoke it low and slow for a period that can last up to 12 hours, then let it rest in an insulated cooler for 1 to 2 hours to allow the meat to relax and the juices to redistribute. Get all the details right and you’ll be rewarded with the ultimate brisket: spicy bark (the crusty exterior); moist, luscious, tender meat; and a smoke flavor that seems to go on forever.