Recipes By Sam Sifton
385 recipes found
Minted Yogurt Sauce
Fresh Ham With Maple-Balsamic Glaze
Think beyond pink. Here is a recipe for a fresh ham — uncured, unsmoked, straight from the butcher — roasted slowly in the oven beneath a shower of salt and pepper, glazed with maple syrup and balsamic vinegar, and finished with a mixture of toasted pecans and candied ginger. It makes for a holiday centerpiece of some distinction, and marvelous sandwiches afterward. Those with access to good pork, free-ranging and fed well, with lots of fat, do not have to brine the meat before cooking. But if you’re picking up a supermarket ham, it is a good bet to do so.
Bacon-Onion Jam
Here is a shockingly good accompaniment to chicken-liver pâté that came to The Times from the kitchen of the Fort Defiance in Brooklyn. But don't think that is its only use. Bacon-onion jam is also a terrific sandwich condiment. Paired with crumbled blue cheese, it's a fantastic topping for a serious, grown-up pizza pie. And because the recipe makes a lot of jam, all three options are possible. One note: Take your time. The point is to cook the mixture until it has achieved full jamminess. The onions should really caramelize. Covered, it will keep in the refrigerator for a week or so.
Cranberry Sauce
Cranberry sauce should be sweet but not cloying, and tart without causing pucker and anguish. It should have a jelly-like quality, but should owe more to the appearance of jam. The key element to making cranberry sauce is to understand that cranberries are high in pectin, a carbohydrate that exists in many fruits and which is released by the berries when they are heated and the cells of the fruit break down. In the presence of sugar, the pectin molecules bond to one another, forming a kind of gel. The longer you cook a cranberry sauce, the more pectin is released and liquid is evaporated, and the stiffer the result will be. Science! Sometimes it's helpful. So is spice. Some like a clove or two added to their cranberry sauce. (I am not one of them.) Others, a whisper of ginger and a small handful of nuts, for texture. Of this, I approve.
Turkey Gravy
Here is a simple, elegant pan gravy that lends itself well to cooking in the very pan in which you've roasted your turkey. It calls for whisking flour with the fat in the bottom of the pan to create a light roux (no lumps!), then hitting it with stock and wine, salt and pepper. Some may wish to add cream, or other spices. Decant the gravy into a warmed boat or beaker, rather than into a cold one, and serve immediately.
Roast Turkey With Orange and Sage
The butter, massaged under the bird's skin, does a lot to help keep the breast meat moist, and the juice and wine in the pan below the bird create a deliciously steamy environment for the roasting. The combination leads to an interesting outcome: a bird that crisps up nicely not at the beginning of cooking, but at the end. The sweet-savory drippings make for excellent gravy.
Thanksgiving Dressing
This classic Thanksgiving dressing, made with bread, celery, onions, apples, chestnuts, thyme and sage, is relatively simple to execute. It would do well at almost any time of the year as an accompaniment to roast chicken or pork. The copious use of turkey broth, or a good chicken broth, is crucial to help meld the flavors together. Also necessary is an understanding that the cooking should last long enough to crisp the exterior without burning it, while not going on so long as to dry out the dish. When in doubt, add a splash more broth.
Glazed Ham
This is the ham that led directly to whatever childhood memory caused someone to combine ham and pineapple on a pizza. The sweet, slightly fiery and herbaceous crust on this salty haunch practically calls out for a garnish of caramelized pineapple, if not a spray of maraschino cherries. Others may reverse course and apply mustard. Either way, it is good to serve with a nutty wild rice or potatoes au grain, something with backbone.
Soft-Boiled Eggs With Anchovy Toast
This is a no-recipe recipe, a recipe without an ingredients list or steps. It invites you to improvise in the kitchen. If you’re up for a delicious, slightly sporty breakfast, you might consider making some anchovy butter tonight. Take a stick of unsalted butter, and let it soften on the counter while you assemble the other ingredients: a tin of anchovies, some garlic cloves, a shake or two of smoked or regular paprika, a wee splash of lemon juice and maybe, but probably not, some salt. Rinse and mince the little fish, mince the garlic, and fork everything together into the butter to taste. Then, come morning, you can slather toast with the result and serve it with soft scrambled eggs or, better yet, soft-boiled eggs, a breakfast I once had in London at a hotel and restaurant the chef Fergus Henderson was running in Leicester Square. Make sure you spread the butter “wall to wall.” That is a vernacular phrase of the chef Gabrielle Hamilton. It means to cover the entire surface of the bread from edge to edge — an important step in buttering, one that is too often shirked. Sam Sifton features a no-recipe recipe every Wednesday in his What to Cook newsletter. Sign up to receive it. You can find more no-recipe recipes here.
Roasted Fish With Ginger, Scallions and Soy
This is a no-recipe recipe, a recipe without an ingredients list or steps. It invites you to improvise in the kitchen. Buy a few fillets of the white-fleshed fish you like best (I like fluke, myself), then put a sheet pan in a 425-degree oven and let it get hot. Make a sauce in a small bowl: a few tablespoons of soy sauce for each one of rice wine or sherry, and a heap of minced or grated ginger, and plenty of thinly sliced scallions. You could put some garlic in there, if you like, and a dash of hot chile oil or sesame oil. Salt and pepper the fish, then pull the hot sheet pan out of the oven and get some neutral oil on it. Add the fish to the hot pan carefully, put it in the oven and roast for a minute or so, then paint the sauce onto the fillets and cook for a minute or so longer, until the fish has just cooked through. Serve with rice and greens. And I bet it’d make a good sandwich? Sam Sifton features a no-recipe recipe every Wednesday in his What to Cook newsletter. Sign up to receive it. You can find more no-recipe recipes here.
Jerusalem Grill
This recipe for griddled chicken thighs with chicken livers and hearts comes from Mike Solomonov and Steven Cook, the Philadelphia restaurateurs whose cookbook, “Israeli Soul,” is an invaluable guide to making Israel’s most beloved street foods and restaurant dishes at home. But you don't need to make it with the livers and hearts. “I like a little funk in there,” Solomonov told me, “but I get it if you don’t like that, if it freaks you out.” So omit the offal if you want. “The dish is as much about the spicing, anyway,” Solomonov said. Serve the meat mounded onto a drift of hummus, as you might spoon a thick ragù on top of polenta, or alone beside a salad. Solomonov likes it as a sandwich. “Eat mixed grill in a pita,” he said. “Eat it with some onion and tehina and a pickle, and it’s so satisfying. It’s a taste of Jerusalem at the end of the night.”
Pork Chops in Cherry-Pepper Sauce
You can use this sauce — spicy and fragrant and slightly syrupy, what the Italians call agrodolce — on pork chops as I call for here, or on veal chops, on steaks, on chicken. I bet it’d be good on grilled seitan or drizzled over tofu. The recipe is reminiscent of the cooking at red-sauce emporia like Bamonte’s in Brooklyn, Rao’s in Manhattan, Dominick’s in the Bronx and, I hope, Carbone in Greenwich Village, where I first learned how to put it together at the elbow of the chef Mario Carbone. Serve with spaghetti dressed in butter and Parmesan, with garlic bread, with a spoon so you can slurp what’s left on the plate. “It’s a flavor that’s purely Italian-American,” Carbone told me. “You won’t find it in Italy, no way.”
Steak Tacos With Pineapple Salsa
This is a no-recipe recipe, a recipe without an ingredients list or steps. It invites you to improvise in the kitchen. Get some fresh tortillas and a pound of skirt steak, then make salsa from mostly fresh or canned pineapple, pickled jalapeños and a healthy couple shakes of chile powder, along with plenty of chopped cilantro. Shower the steaks with salt and pepper, and broil them for 2 to 3 minutes a side until they’re perfect and rare. Warm the tortillas. Grate some Cheddar. Rest the steak, slice it, and serve with the tortillas, cheese and that awesome salsa. Anyone want to watch a movie after dinner? We have time. Sam Sifton features a no-recipe recipe every Wednesday in his What to Cook newsletter. Sign up to receive it. You can find more no-recipe recipes here.
Spiedies
Spiedies are a mainstay sandwich of Binghamton, N.Y., and its surrounding boroughs. They’re made of meat marinated for a long time in what amounts to Italian dressing, then threaded onto skewers, grilled, and slid into a cheap sub roll, sometimes with a drizzle of fresh marinade or hot sauce. The recipe that follows calls for beef, but pork or venison can be used almost interchangeably. Marinate for a long time: a full 24 to 36 hours is not uncommon, and results in chunks of meat that are so deeply flavored that they taste great even when slightly overcooked. (If you use chicken, however, reduce the length of time in the marinade, since the meat starts to break down after 12 hours or so.) Serve the spiedies with an additional drizzle of lemon juice and olive oil, on top of Italian bread or alongside rice.
Chinese Roast Pork on Garlic Bread
Chinese roast pork on garlic bread is one of the great New York sandwiches, a taste of the highest peaks of Catskills cuisine: thinly sliced, Cantonese-style char siu married to Italian-American garlic bread beneath a veil of sweet-sticky duck sauce. It’s been around since the 1950s, a favorite of the summertime borscht belt crowd. You can make the sandwich with store-bought char siu if you like, but I prefer the homemade variety because I can make it with fancy pork from the farmers’ market. It’s also juicier and more flavorful. Then, layer the meat onto garlic bread, and add a drizzle of duck sauce – for that, I use leftover packets from Chinese takeout orders or make my own with apricot preserves cut through with vinegar. Some people add a slash of hot mustard; others fresh pickles, or coleslaw. “It’s the ultimate assimilation crossover food,” the food writer and erstwhile restaurant critic Arthur Schwartz told me. “That sandwich is a symbol of acculturation.”
Craig Claiborne's Smothered Chicken With Mushrooms
A classic of his Mississippi childhood, Craig Claiborne's smothered chicken made its debut in The Times in 1983, accompanied by mushrooms and small onions that give it a slightly more metropolitan flavor. (You could always omit these if you have neither on hand.) The basic idea is to split a chicken down the back and cook it whole in a skillet over butter, with a weighted plate on top to insure a crisp skin, and rich gravy. In terms of temperature and time, the Southern gospel of low and slow is key to achieving maximum smother.
Turkey Brine
This classic wet brine is adapted from an old Yankee Magazine recipe for a traditional New England roast turkey. It yields a moist and tender bird.
Pizza With Caramelized Onions, Figs, Bacon and Blue Cheese
Here is a recipe for pizza that calls to mind — at least this mind — the joys of car travel through southeastern France, where pizzas such as this are available at all the imaginary cafes in small towns near the Italian border. It certainly tastes as if it comes from that region and, if you close your eyes as you eat it, you can almost imagine yourself halfway through a drive from Aix to Turin. The time spent caramelizing the onions is more than worth it, so do it the day before you intend to make the pie. Which is when, as it happens, you should make the dough as well. And we have a recipe for that as well — a version adapted from the team behind the magical Roberta’s Pizza in Brooklyn.
Craig Claiborne's Smothered Chicken, Creole Style
For this version of a classic Southern smothered chicken, Craig Claiborne and Pierre Franey reddened the gravy and brought it some of the gentle heat of the Delta. Served with white rice, it makes for a classic family meal.
Quick-Roasted Chicken With Tarragon
This is a no-recipe recipe, a recipe without an ingredients list or steps. It invites you to improvise in the kitchen. French elegance on the fly. Heat the oven to 425, or higher if your oven runs cool. Mix a few tablespoons of mayonnaise with a little Dijon mustard and a lot of chopped tarragon in a large bowl until everything’s incorporated to your liking. Salt and pepper some chicken thighs — I’d do bone-in, but boneless would also work — then add the thighs to the mustard mixture, tossing to coat the meat. Arrange the chicken on a greased sheet pan and cover each piece with a handful of bread crumbs, really pressing the crumbs in so they adhere. Slide that pan into the oven for a half-hour or so while you make some rice or boil off a few potatoes. You can make a salad, or steam some greens. Then check to see if the chicken has been cooked all the way through. Probably not. Another five or 10 minutes ought to do it. You’re looking for a nice crisp crust, golden brown, above the luscious meat. Sam Sifton features a no-recipe recipe every Wednesday in his What to Cook newsletter. Sign up to receive it. You can find more no-recipe recipes here.
Beef Stroganoff
Forget what you think you remember about this putatively Russian dish, which saw its zenith in American kitchens during the 1950s and its nadir in school cafeterias two decades later. Beef stroganoff makes for an outstanding dinner: a vat of tender sautéed meat in a silken gravy studded with caramelized mushrooms, alongside a huge tangle of buttered noodles. Be careful when adding the cream at the end: Sour cream easily curdles in the heat, while crème fraîche or heavy cream offer smoother results.
Meatloaf Stroganoff
This meatloaf pays homage to one that was served at the old M. Wells in Long Island City, when the restaurant was in a dodgy old diner where the cooks did prep work on the lunch counters and the vents occasionally caught fire. The chef, Hugue Dufour, folded knuckles of foie gras into this marvelous Stroganoff gravy that he used to nap big loaves of aged-beef meatloaf. I’ve made versions at home with beef and lamb and pork covered in sauce made with mushrooms both wild and supermarket-bland. I’ve spooned canned foie gras into my meatloaf mixture to mimic the original, and I’ve dotted it into the finished sauce as well. That last maneuver was in truth more successful, providing pops of richness against the silkiness of the cream, but I’ve also omitted the foie entirely and no one has been the poorer for it. The adaptations hardly matter. Make a good and juicy meatloaf with the best meat you can find, and cover it with mushrooms and cream. You’ve got a meal to suggest magic.
Lucali Salad
Mark Iacono sometimes serves a version of this salad at Lucali, his candlelit church of pizza in Brooklyn. It’s what he calls a “bottom of the bowl” salad, reminiscent of what’s left after a long Sunday dinner with family, with tomatoes, black olives and red onion deeply marinated in a vinegar-heavy dressing. He layers these above and below cold, crisp lettuce, adds a final drizzle of dressing and serves the salad with a meatball on top of it. But it goes as well plain alongside a pizza or under a sausage that’s been simmered in sauce, with stuffed shells or lasagna or eggplant Parm. You don’t need fancy tomatoes or lettuce with bona fides, just strong vinaigrette and enough time to allow the tomatoes to bleed out in it before you assemble the salad and serve.
Twice-Baked Potatoes With Cauliflower and Cheese
This is a recipe that nods at a lesson taught by the British writer Nigel Slater, which is to poach the cauliflower in bay-leaf scented milk while the potatoes bake. The soft florets are then mashed in with the potato flesh and a healthy splash of the cooked milk. Add butter. Top with cheese.