Recipes By Von Diaz
26 recipes found
Quesitos (Sweet Cream Cheese Pastries)
A Puerto Rican bakery classic, these flaky pastries filled with sweetened cream cheese are easy to make at home. Like much of the island’s best food, these simple pastries reflect a range of cultural influences, including Cuban pastelitos de queso, and it’s their simplicity that makes them timeless. You can find them in bakeries across the island as well as in the states, with variations like guava, chocolate, bacon and even plant-based cheese. Experiment in your own kitchen, too: this recipe is very adaptable, and can be easily halved or doubled. This filling is less sweet than traditional ones, so don’t hesitate to be more generous with the sugar inside or on top. However you make them, they’re best enjoyed with a hot cup of coffee.
Doubles
Easily the most recognizable and beloved dish from Trinidad and Tobago, doubles are an expression of migration and fortitude. Badru Deen is the son of Emamool and Raheman Rasulan Deen, who conceived of the dish in 1936 in Princes Town as a way to support their large family, bridging Indian flavors with the ingredients of their Caribbean home. Doubles are addictive: The turmeric-and-cumin-laced bara (fried bread) are crisp but soft, cradling spiced chickpeas that are punctuated with sour, spicy, sweet and crunchy condiments. As with all deep-frying, have a splatter guard handy, and open a window. Traditionally, doubles are served with mango chutney and pepper sauce, chadon beni or culantro chutneys, but, inspired by the cross-island connections found in “Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking” by Von Diaz (Chronicle Books, 2024), these can be topped with mint-cilantro chutney from Mauritius and tamarind sauce. Sauces are optional, but strongly encouraged. Doubles are messy by design, and turmeric will stain your clothes.
Tamarind Sauce
This tangy Trinidadian condiment is spiced with amchar masala, a traditional local blend that’s similar to garam masala, and brightened with culantro, cilantro’s earthy, robust cousin. Adapted from “Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking” by Von Diaz (Chronicle Books, 2024), this tamarind sauce from Brigid Washington is luscious, inky, sweet but complex. It pairs well with spicy curries, samosas and other flavorful fritters, grilled steak or roasted vegetables, and balances the spiciness of the channa in Trinidadian doubles.
Spicy Mint-Cilantro Chutney
Tangy and spicy, with a touch of sweetness, this fresh, herbaceous chutney is incredibly adaptable, and will brighten up curries, stews, fritters, and grilled seafood and chicken. Adapted from “Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking” by Von Diaz (Chronicle Books, 2024), this no-cook, blended chutney hails from Mauritius, but similar chutneys can be found across Indian Ocean nations. Drizzle it and other dynamic sauces on top of spicy Trinidadian doubles.
Sazón Chicken Breasts
This stovetop method of cooking chicken breasts in a sazón-heavy marinade produces juicy, fragrant, well-seasoned meat. It definitely stands up as a main course, but leftovers make for great additions to salads and tacos. The breasts benefit from an overnight marinade, which will make the meat juicier and more flavorful, but the dish can come together in 45 minutes if you’re short on time. This recipe also works great with boneless, skinless chicken thighs. Because they’re often thinner and fattier, they may cook a little more quickly than breasts.
Adobo Roasted Potatoes
Using a classic Puerto Rican adobo seasoning — an island staple blend of garlic powder, oregano and black pepper — this recipe yields simple, savory roasted potatoes. They pair well with grilled meat and seafood, or make for a flavorful addition to any vegetable plate. The seasoning mix can be doubled or tripled (or more), with the rest stored in the pantry as an all-purpose seasoning, as it’s often used in Puerto Rican cooking to add instant flavor to stewed meats, beans and more. Roasted potatoes will keep for at least a week in the fridge, so make a big batch to snack on, add them to salads and soups, or smash and fry them for breakfast home fries.
Arroz con Tocino (Rice With Salt Pork)
In Puerto Rico, rice is typically served at Thanksgiving. Arroz con gandules is standard, and this twist on classic white rice is also a favorite. Salt pork or bacon is sautéed until crisp, replacing the oil and salt that’s usually added to white rice and giving this staple a decidedly porky essence. While Puerto Ricans often use a lightweight aluminum pot or caldero for rice dishes, a large, light, nonstick saucepan with a lid is a good replacement. Salt pork can vary in saltiness and funk, so rinse well and pat dry with a clean towel before dicing, and adjust the salt to taste. Do not wash the rice before cooking as it will make the rice retain moisture and become mushy. This quick, easy side dish pairs well with saucy beans, greens and stewed meats any day of the week.
Arroz con Pollo
Ubiquitous throughout Latin America and beyond, arroz con pollo can be as simple or as complex as your ingredients allow. The key is to layer flavor, adding dimension as you go. Boneless, skinless chicken thighs are preferred, but bone-in will also work well. (Chicken breasts lack the same amount of fat and flavor, so they are not recommended here.) Watch the rice carefully as it cooks, absorbing the liquid, as pots and stoves vary greatly. If it starts to smell a little burned, reduce the heat, toss and put the lid on the pot. But don’t worry, as this aroma can be part of creating the coveted pegao, a layer of toasted rice that develops on the bottom of the pan and sticks to it, similar to Persian tahdig, Spanish socarrat or Senegalese xoon.
Arroz Mamposteao
Rice and beans are religion in Puerto Rico, though they’re typically prepared separately but served together, several spoonfuls of beans on top of white rice. But mamposteao — easily my favorite name for a Puerto Rican dish — combines the two. It’s a preparation intended to make use of leftovers, as it benefits from day-old rice and prepared beans. Traditionally, pork and tomato sauce are added — but, for a more subtle approach to this recipe, bacon fat replaces ham or tocino (fatback) here, giving the dish a smoky richness without any meat. You can prepare this dish from start to finish with fresh rice and fresh beans, but it’s not recommended. Think of this as a satisfying way to make use of leftover ingredients that also pairs well with a variety of Puerto Rican dishes.
Pernil
Perhaps the best known and most coveted dish from Puerto Rico, pernil is a positively sumptuous preparation for pork shoulder. It’s marinated (ideally overnight) in garlic, citrus and herbs, then slow-roasted on high heat to achieve a crisp chicharrón, or skin. Traditionally, it’s prepared for Thanksgiving or Christmas, but for those of us in the diaspora, it’s made for most special occasions. Shoulder is also a relatively inexpensive cut of meat, and it yields a lot of servings, leading to exciting leftovers. This recipe is deeply indebted to the chef Maricel Presilla and her recipe in “Gran Cocina Latina,” her cookbook published in 2012. Her method is a foolproof way to get that chicharrón as well as tender meat that falls off the bone. It’s blessed by her brilliance. (Watch the video of Von Diaz making pernil here.)
Sazón
Cumin-heavy sazón is among the most commonly used spice blends in Puerto Rican cooking, and is also popular throughout Latin America. This seasoning is an incredible cheat, and is typically found in the international section of most supermarkets. Commercial brands are flavor bombs pumped with monosodium glutamate — MSG — that can make almost anything taste better. While I’m not MSG-phobic, I do prefer making my own blends to control both the flavor and the salt content. This is my take on sazón, minus the MSG, and with turmeric added along with the standard annatto to imbue dishes with a golden hue. Adaptation is encouraged based on preference, and if you can’t find ground annatto then sweet paprika is a perfect substitute. It will keep in an air-tight container for years.
Carne Guisada (Stewed Beef)
Among the most recognizable dishes of my culture, carne guisada will cure what ails you. Beef is slowly braised with aromatic sofrito and tomatoes, producing a rich, delicious dish you’re likely to eat too much of. For those who have lived in Puerto Rican enclaves such as New York, Philadelphia, Chicago or Orlando, Fla., this is a daily staple at cafeteria-style lunch counters, as it is on the island. You can also use this recipe to make pollo guisado, equally popular and common, simply by using chicken and adjusting the cooking time accordingly.
Sofrito
Sofrito — a blend of garlic, onions, peppers and recao (culantro) — is the backbone of Puerto Rican flavor. Also referred to as recaito, it’s typically sautéed in oil as the foundation for sauces, braises, beans, stews and rice dishes. It’s also adaptable, and can yield a lighter, more verdant flavor if sautéed for 2 to 3 minutes, and a richer flavor if sautéed for 7 to 10 minutes and combined with tomato sauce. This recipe yields about 3 cups, which is probably more than you’ll use for any recipe, but it keeps well. My grandmother often kept sofrito in the freezer stored in a repurposed plastic margarine container, or frozen into cubes and saved in plastic zip-top bags. If kept in the refrigerator, it’s best if used within a week, but can be frozen for up to six months. You can also put it into a pan with hot oil straight from the freezer, though it may sputter a smidge.
Pollo en Fricasé
The ultimate comfort food, this dish bears the mark of Spanish and French colonial influence, but takes a decidedly Puerto Rican approach. Bone-in chicken thighs are braised to perfection in a rich, oniony, tomato-based sauce with a lot of garlic, balanced with white wine and vinegar, and punctuated by briny olives and capers. Potatoes are added toward the end, for a satisfying meal. Like so many Puerto Rican dishes, this one is highly adaptable. Some brown the chicken first, adding sofrito and other aromatics later. Folks often add carrots, or use beer or red wine instead of white. My take is pared down and incredibly simple, making it an easy weeknight meal that can be prepared while you’re getting your house in order after work. This recipe is adapted from “Cocina Criolla,” which has remained the island’s best-known and most popular cookbook for more than 60 years.
Alcapurrias de Jueyes (Crab-Stuffed Fritters)
Puerto Rico is famous for its fritters, and alcapurrias are among the most coveted. Imagine a tamale made of green banana and root vegetable masa that is stuffed with savory meat or seafood, and then deep fried. You typically get them from the kioskos, roadside stands along Puerto Rico’s beaches and highways, particularly in Loíza, a town on the northeastern coast that is the island’s African heart. At home, they’re often made over the holidays, as many hands make light work. The flavor is unmistakable: earthy green banana and taro cut by savory sofrito, briny capers and delicate crab meat. The filling, often called a salmorejo, is usually made from local land crabs, but commercially available lump crab is a fitting substitute. This recipe is adapted from one by María Dolores “Lula” de Jesús, the 84-year-old owner of El Burén de Lula in Loíza, who is considered by many to be a madrina, or godmother, of this and other dishes with African origins.
Yuca con Mojo
Yuca is among the most commonly eaten viandas — the local word for starchy fruits and vegetables, such as plantain and taro — in Puerto Rico. It is the root of the cassava, an extraordinarily resilient plant that was the principal food of the Indigenous Taínos of the island. Among its many preparations, this is my favorite: boiled yuca doused in a garlicky citrus mojo dressing, my grandmother’s recipe. She never wrote it down, but my mother had it deep in her memory, and we cooked it together for this version you see here. The mojo will keep for several weeks in the fridge, and is also delicious on crispy fried tostones, roasted vegetables and fish.
Mofongo
Easily the most popular classic Puerto Rican dish, mofongo is flavorful, satisfying and layered with history. The ingredients and process reference the island’s Indigenous and African roots alongside Spanish flavors. While this preparation uses chicharrón or pork cracklings, you can easily make it vegan by omitting the pork and adding a little extra garlic and olive oil. The trick to great mofongo is to work quickly: Heat your garlic and olive oil mojo while your plantains are frying, and smash everything together as soon as they’re done. You can stuff mofongo with seafood or roast pork, if you like, and serve it with guiso, a flavorful, sofrito-scented tomato sauce, or even use it to stuff a Thanksgiving turkey. The included recipe for guiso is optional but recommended, as it adds dimension and moisture, particularly for a vegan preparation.
Pescado Frito (Fried Red Snapper)
Fishing is an extraordinarily complex issue in Puerto Rico. Much of the seafood eaten doesn’t come from the island’s own waters, in part because of arcane legislation that controls fishing rights. And yet, whole deep-fried fish is a staple on the island, particularly along the west and southwest coast. There, you’ll find red snapper, simply marinated in adobo, fried and served with tostones, avocado salad and white rice. It is, in my opinion, the absolute best way to enjoy a whole fish. The frying turns the head and the tail into a crunchy fish chicharrón, and the skin and flesh cook evenly, keeping the flesh moist and the skin crisp. While bones are often a concern for those uncomfortable eating whole fish, there’s a simple solution: Eat it with your hands. Your fingers will do a much better job of finding bones than your fork will, and the experience is more visceral, and delicious.
Churrasco (Grilled Marinated Skirt Steak)
Like so many of the best Puerto Rican dishes, churrasco — garlicky wood-fire-grilled steak served with chimichurri — starts by tenderizing a tougher cut of meat (skirt steak) with a flavorful marinade. Although its origins are Argentinian and Brazilian (the word churrasco encompassing grilled meats in both Spanish and Portuguese), variations on the dish are Latin American staples. This recipe kicks up a classic Puerto Rican marinade with a bit of adobo seasoning, and then served with wasakaka, an herbaceous sauce from the Dominican Republic using lime juice. The steak should be grilled over an open fire (the smoke is key), but a gas grill will do, as will a cast-iron skillet. Serve with adobo roasted potatoes, maduros, white rice or arroz mamposteao, plus fresh tomato and avocado slices.
Cazuela
Puerto Rican cazuela, a richly spiced crustless pie with a texture between thick custard and bread pudding, is a unique dessert with a complex history. The name means “cooking pot” in Spanish, and the key ingredients — batata (white sweet potato), pumpkin and coconut milk — and the traditional cooking process speak to the island’s African ancestry. Flavored with ginger, cloves, cinnamon and anise, this dish also includes spices brought to the Caribbean during the spice trade. Cazuela has been prepared since at least the 19th century, and today it’s largely reserved for holidays. This version is an adaptation of the classic, with sweet plantain added for flavor, and a tip for using canned ingredients. While this dessert may seem challenging at first glance, it is incredibly adaptable and can be prepared days in advance in a casserole dish, ramekins or even foil cupcake tins.
Guava-Glazed Jerk Pork Tenderloin
Jerk is a powerfully complex blend of spices and aromatics redolent with cinnamon, allspice, cumin and chiles. Historically, it’s tied to Maroons fleeing enslavement in the Jamaican foothills, and is among the most iconic flavors of the Caribbean. True jerk is grilled over an open fire, and is as much a seasoning as it is an action, because you can “jerk” pork, goat, chicken and even fruits and vegetables. It’s often applied to dark, often gamey or gristly cuts of meat that stand up to complex flavors. While not traditional, this leaner, lighter pork is an excellent vessel for jerk. It’s especially good when marinated overnight and grilled, but is so simple to prepare it can easily be made for a weeknight celebration. A simple jelly glaze at the end adds sweetness and tang, caramelizing under a quick broil. Pair with rice and peas, maduros or a bright, fresh garden salad.
Jackfruit Curry
Reminiscent of chicken tikka masala, this recipe is inspired by the in-ground or lovo cooking of Fiji. There, meats are heavily seasoned, then set atop tubers, jackfruit or breadfruit, wrapped in banana leaves and slow-cooked. This simple vegan dish is rich and satisfying, drawing on the Indo-Fijian flavors of the island, with aromatic spices and a bit of a kick. Heavy with coriander, garlic and ginger, this spice blend has a slightly milder, more delicate flavor than most. But if you have a favorite blend, you can substitute the spices in this recipe with 2 tablespoons of no-salt curry powder, and continue with the recipe as written. Serve alongside white rice and sautéed veggies, naan or your favorite curries.
Spam Macaroni and Cheese
This decadent yet simple recipe pairs creamy macaroni and cheese with crispy, salty-sweet diced Spam for a dish that bridges Puerto Rico and the South. It’s much quicker than most homemade macaroni and cheese recipes (which often require making a roux and cream sauce), without sacrificing texture or flavor. It is also incredibly adaptable, because it will work with most cheeses. If you have the time and the will, sprinkle the finished macaroni with extra cheese and bake under a low broil for 5 to 10 minutes until toasted. During tough times, a box of instant mac and cheese and a can of Spam will also yield delicious results.
Pastelillos de Guayaba (Guava Cheese Pastries)
Panaderías in Puerto Rico are magical. Their brightly lit glass cases are lined with fresh-baked bread and rich pastries, begging you to order too many. As a child, I clamored for pastelillos (also called pastelitos) de guayaba. The pastries typically have a flaky crust and are filled with a generous smear of concentrated guava paste — an embodiment of tropical Caribbean flavor — and often with cheese, served glazed or dusted with powdered sugar. In East Harlem, or El Barrio, New York’s historic Puerto Rican enclave where I lived for some time, I discovered Valencia Bakery on East 103rd Street, which made a bite-size version with a generous amount of confectioners’ sugar, creating a portal between the island and my new home. My recipe is inspired by theirs. These are excellent with coffee, and will keep for several days, benefiting from a reheat in the oven.