Dinner
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Joe Cooper's Chili con Carne
Green Chile Chicken Stew
Many agree the best green chiles are grown in the Hatch Valley in southern New Mexico, so it’s great to make this delicious chicken stew in early fall when they’re are available. (Get a friend to send you some, or order them online.) But you can also make it throughout the year using frozen or canned green chiles. Though pork, beef or lamb are more traditional for green chile stew, this chicken version is a bit lighter, quicker to cook and still packs a punch. It’s not a dish for the faint of heart.
Chicken and Dumplings
Heartier than chicken soup, this classic comfort dish is decidedly more stewlike, thanks to a golden-brown roux, a densely flavored chicken broth, and, of course, the dumplings. Think of them as a biscuit meeting a matzo ball: fluffy little clouds made from a quick mixture of flour, baking powder, buttermilk, butter and an egg for springiness. They’re cooked right on top of the chicken stew, partly poaching and partly steaming.
Southwestern Pork Meatloaf
Catalan Stew With Lobster and Clams
Romesco, the delicious rust-colored sauce from the Catalan region of Spain, is justly popular, served alongside grilled fish or as dip for vegetables. It is typically made with fresh and dried red peppers, roasted almonds and hazelnuts, a fair amount of garlic, and day-old bread fried in olive oil. Sometimes, however, instead of being used as a sauce, it is added to a fish stew. Known as romesco de peix or simply romescada, it may contain several kinds of fish and shellfish. In this version, which features lobster and clams, rather than stirring in the romesco at the end, the ingredients are added in stages from the beginning, for depth of flavor.
Caramelized Beets With Orange-Saffron Yogurt
This astonishingly pretty platter is equally delicious, a signature of the British chef Yotam Ottolenghi, who provided the recipe: soft, sweet beets against the tart astringency of the orange-tinctured yogurt, its coolness threaded with saffron. It is also an ace make-ahead dish: You can prepare the yogurt and the beets the night before serving, or in the morning. Look for a good variety of beets if you can, for reasons of color and taste alike: golden ones to offset the red, say, with a mixture of candy canes between the two.
Yellow Beet Salad With Mustard Seed Dressing
If you are beet-phobic because you fear the inevitable crimson stains, try golden yellow beets instead. Yellow beets, nearing orange on the color spectrum, are slightly milder than red ones. They make a beautiful assertive salad, dressed with horseradish, mustard and mustard seeds.
Crab and Black Beans
Rye Spaetzle Gratin
Unless you have an Eastern European heritage or a penchant for replicating the hearty cuisine of German beer halls, it may never have occurred to you to make spaetzle at home. I have both, and the small, squiggly egg dumplings are one of the first carb-heavy, comfort-food dishes I crave when the weather turns cold. Making spaetzle is simpler than you may think. Mixing the ingredients is as easy as making pancake batter and uses pantry staples. The only potentially tricky part is turning the batter into fluffy little dumplings. There are several approaches to this. Some people like to make a thick dough and grate it through the holes of a cheese grater. But if you keep the spaetzle mix as runny as cake batter, you’ll be able to push it through a spaetzle maker (or colander) into a pot of boiling water fairly quickly.
Brazilian-Style Steaks With Country Sauce
Shortcut Choucroute
This pork and vegetable braise requires about 3 hours of time and 5 minutes of work. Spend a few minutes making broad strokes with a sharp knife and layer the ingredients in a deep roasting pan. Then walk away for more than 2 hours. Pass through the kitchen again to uncover the pan and turn the oven up, then go back to your business. You’ve just spent a productive 3 or so hours cooking and doing something else.
Stewed Chicken and Rice
This dish is rich and clean, but still lively and interesting — all things to all tastes — in one single pot. We brown and then braise the chicken, toast and grind the rice before steaming, “chicharron” the skin, parbake the meatballs, julienne the lemon peel, thinly slice the shallots and, at the very end, soften tender spinach in the hot broth. It’s deeply satisfying, the workhorse of family meals.
Beef Barley Soup With Lemon
With a higher ratio of broth to barley than one usually sees, and the addition of plenty of fresh baby spinach, this beef barley soup is a little lighter than most of its kind. However, it’s still a substantial, satisfying meal that gets a heady aroma from spices (coriander, cumin and paprika) and a brightness from lemon. If you like your meals with a kick, top this with thinly sliced jalapeño, which will wilt slightly from the heat of the soup. Leftovers freeze perfectly for at least three months, though if using the jalapeño, don’t add it until serving time.
Eduardo Giurici's brodetto alla triestina (Trieste-style fish stew)
Pinakbet (Vegetables Stewed in Fermented Shrimp Paste)
Filipino cooking embraces salt — perhaps the legacy of life in a tropical climate, where, before refrigeration, food had to be preserved. The primary salt in pinkabet, a vegetable stew, is bagoong, a satisfyingly funky paste of fermented shrimp or fish. As with miso, there are many types of bagoong: dry or oily, toasted or raw, bright pink and briny or dark brown and faintly sweet. I like to use the pink variety because of the large formations of salt crystals. Paired with the toasted and caramelized tomato paste, the bagoong achieves a deep, concentrated umami flavor, enough to season all the vegetables.
Chilled Golden Beet and Buttermilk Soup
The beauty of this quick, simple soup recipe is in its layers of bright and carefully balanced acidity. Golden beets, puréed with buttermilk and lemon juice, have a sweet, gentle twang; Erin French, a chef from Freedom, Me., takes things even further, garnishing each bowl with fresh herbs, finely chopped shallots macerated in rice wine vinegar, and dollops of sour cream. Serve this soup as a side or with crusty, garlic-rubbed grilled bread to make it a meal.
Fennel ‘Quick Kimchi’
This is not a traditional kimchi, but it approximates the flavor profile, bypassing a lengthier fermentation and instead relying on vinegar. In Korea, this dish would be considered a muchim, which can refer to any number of “seasoned” or “dressed” salads or other preparations. That also means you can eat it right away, though this fennel kimchi will keep up to two or three days before losing its crunch. Admittedly, fennel is not a traditional ingredient in kimchi, but its gentle aniseed flavor provides a clean landing pad for the spicy dressing, which leans on pantry stalwarts like gochugaru, sesame oil and fish sauce. Enjoy this as a hearty salad alongside fish, pork chops or any main dish that could use a fresh accompaniment. For a vegetarian option, you can swap out the fish sauce for soy sauce.
Tortilla Stack With Chili-Tomato Sauce
Black-Eyed Pea and Pork Gumbo
The chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski serve this gumbo regularly at Cochon, their Cajun-Southern restaurant in New Orleans. Its ingredients depart significantly from traditional New Orleans restaurant gumbos, which almost never feature pork, legumes or greens, although those norms have changed in recent years, in part due to Cochon’s influence. As a rule, when seasoning gumbo, Mr. Link uses just 75 percent of the suggested spice portions at first, then adds the rest as desired according to taste. Since this recipe can produce varying results, depending on whether you’re using smoked pork butt from a local barbecue joint or a store-bought variety, home-cooked black-eyed peas or canned, braised collards or mustard greens, Mr. Link’s seasoning approach is particularly useful.
Par-Cooked Lobsters
Black-Eyed Pea Soup or Stew With Pomegranate and Chard
This is another dish inspired by a recipe in Louisa Shafia’s book “The New Persian Kitchen.” You can use more or less water, depending on whether you want the dish to have the consistency of a soup or a thick stew. It’s hearty, and the most beautiful pink hue.
Smoky Beef and Vegetable Sliders
Sliders are a great way to stretch out a small amount of ground meat. I made this dish, which is reminiscent of a sloppy Joe (though a lot tidier), to use up the half-pound of left-over ground beef, and added vegetables to bulk it out and lighten it up.
Dandelion Salad With Beets, Bacon and Goat Cheese Toasts
Tender dandelion leaves make a sensational salad. This one is modeled after a classic Paris bistro salad, but the vinaigrette has fresh ginger and lime juice to stand up to dandelions' faintly bitter flavor. It still tastes very French, as do the goat cheese toasts.